Recommended Restaurants in Paris - Gaya Rive Gauche

Although the menu and decor have been completely revised, this restaurant still remains the symbol and expression of the chic "intellectual" district that surrounds it, between Saint-Germain-des-Près and the Hôtel Lutetia. So one doesn't just go "chez" Pierre Gagnaire, one also plunges into a typically Parisian atmosphere, interesting for its customs and Balzac-style crowd...

"I'm really delighted with this first star," explains Pierre Gagnaire, "because it rewards a concept that is close to my heart: opening an affordable restaurant where you can come and eat simply, without the pomp of gourmet restaurants."

Indeed, it is possible to sit down at the bar (on curious "compressed air" stools) and choose dishes depending on your appetite or the amount of time that you have: starter, main course, dessert, if you want to treat yourself, or just one dish if you're in a hurry, such as the amazing "croque-monsieur noir à l'infusion de crevettes grises" (toasted ham and cheese sandwich with infusion of shrimp). (€13).

The menu - identical in every way to that of Pierre Gagnaire à Tokyo (opened in November 2005) - focuses exclusively on seafood, with the exception of the already famous "Surf & Turf", a combination of large saté prawns and piece of lamb with preserved lemon (€29).

The Brittany oysters, selected for their strong flavour and iodine-rich nature, are served with delicious homemade rye bread (€3 each).

The terrine of crab with turnips and cauliflower mayonnaise (photo opposite) is a must (€26), and nobly continues the "authentic brasserie" tradition, which Pierre Gagnaire feels is desperately lacking in Paris today.

No farmed fish, of course, but a succulent wild sea bass, red mullet, sole, pan-fried langoustines with parsley and hard wheat semolina flavoured with cinnamon... "I have excluded from the menu expensive products such as turbot, John Dory and lobster".

Contrary to the assertions of certain restaurant critics, Gaya Rive Gauche is not reserved for "scholars" or "experienced gourmets"; the cuisine here is, on the contrary, totally transparent and affordable.

For Pierre Gagnaire, this restaurant is first and foremost a team, which he has put together like a football selector, with captain, officers and lieutenants! And his recruits are amazingly young: the chef, Guillaume, is only 27, the restaurant manager, Alexandre, 26, and the sommelier, Adrien, 21...

"They all trained in the kitchens of my restaurant in rue Balzac. So I have confidence in them, but I don't hesitate sometimes to make them start a dish over again, several times in a row... You have to know how to refocus and motivate your players!" A team that is still getting into its stride, therefore, which should certainly go from strength to strength in the coming months!

€70 per meal, including wine.