 Calm
and smiling, Tateru Yoshino takes success in his stride. When he learnt that
he had finally been awarded the long awaited star this year, the man, with
great self-control, let nothing show. One week later, he sent 25 copies of
the Michelin Guide to Japan, where the news of his recognition made
front-page news.
Make no mistake about it, at 52 years old, Tateru Yoshino is no "trendy"
disciple of "fusion" cuisine. His credo is not the blending of cultures and
flavours. At the age of 18, he went into French cuisine like others enlist
in the Foreign Legion. So at his restaurant you won't find any Kobé beef,
sushi, green tea, or yuzu (the famous mandarin flavoured Japanese lemon) but
instead. lièvre à la royale (braised hare), tête de veau en cocotte (calf's
head) and soufflé au Grand Marnier!
Having trained with Joël Robuchon, Troisgros and Taillevent, this peasant's
son, born on the peninsula of Kagoshima in the far south of Japan, sets out
to be first and foremost an interpreter of great French cuisine, which he
left his homeland in 1979 to study. His style is personal, like that of a
Glenn Gould revamping the scores of J.S. Bach. Tateru Yoshino breathes new
life into the classics of Escoffier - and this cuisine, precise but not
pretentious, is modern through and through!
From the starter, one is impressed by the delicacy of the red tuna and
aubergine millefeuille, served with tapenade and Romanesco cabbage with
balsamic vinegar. The work of a goldsmith, pure finesse!
The fondant de foie gras de canard (duck foie gras) with carrot, truffle and
pistachio marbling, reduction of Banyuls and fig purée, is a creation as
pleasing to the eye as to the taste buds. The maître d'hôtel will propose to
top it off with a glass of Alain Brumont's delicious Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh,
the product of a late grape harvest, with aromas of flowers and dried fruit.
Still as a starter, the terrine of kale with foie gras also surprises with
its thin slices of black truffle slipped into the tender folds of the
vegetable.
As for the main courses, the émincé de lotte (monkfish) with bacon and
"Greek-style" vegetables (olive oil, lemon juice, white wine) is a model of
lightness, spiced up by tiny bits of orange zest.
More powerful in its aroma but also light thanks to its very fine crust, the
pigeon pie is inspired by that of Jean and Pierre Troigros (Tateru Yoshino
trained at their restaurant, alongside Pierre Gagnaire). It is above all a
reminder of the Japanese chef's love of game, to which he devotes a very
rich menu for six months of the year, as witnessed by his Rossini-style
noisette of venison, his famous lièvre à la royale(highly praised by the
specialists!) and his wild duck served in two courses.
A detail often neglected, even in the "grand restaurants", the bread is
homemade and boasts an attractive golden crust and slightly nutty flavour.
For dessert, Tateru Yoshino's taste for contrast manifests itself, with his
chocolate mousse with fine sea salt or brochette of rum baba, Madagascar
vanilla cream and exotic fruit.
In accordance with a Japanese tradition to which he has always remained
true, Tateru Yoshino follows the rhythm of the seasons and only uses
organically farmed vegetables. His menus change four times a year and give
pride of place to fresh sea produce, such as sea urchins from the Île
d'Oléron, scallops from Erquis and Brittany lobsters. His game birds and
animals are also admired by the specialists.
Lunch menu at 43 euros. Sampler menus at 85 or 130 euros.
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