| A long, rugged coastline, vast bays of glorious beaches, and a
secretive, almost mystical interior is the lasting impression of Brittany.
This most westward region of France, where the Bretons speak their
ancient language and carry on age-old traditions, always seems a little out
of step with mainstream France, but the many attractions welcome visitors in
their thousands year after year.
Jutting defiantly into the Atlantic, France's northwest corner has long
been culturally and geographically distinct from the main bulk of the
country.
Known to the Celts as Armorica, the land of the sea, Brittany's past swirls
with the legends of drowned cities and Arthurian forests. Prehistoric
megaliths arise mysteriously from land and sea, and the medieval is never
far from the modern.
A long, jagged coastline is the region's great attraction. Magnificient
beaches line its northern shore, swept clean by huge tides and interspersed
with well-established seaside resorts seasoned fishing ports and abundant
oysterbeds. The south coast is gentler, with wooded river valleys and a
milder climate, while the west, being exposed to the Atlantic winds, has a
drama that justifies the name "Finistère" , - the end of the
earth. Inland lies the Argoat - once the land and the forest, now a
patchwork of undulating fields, woods and rolling moorland. Parc Régional
d'Armorique occupies much of, central Finistère, and it is in western
Brittany that Breton culture remains most evident.
In Quimper (Hotels Quimper), and in the Pays Bigouden, crèpes and cider, traditional costumes
and Celtic music are still a genuine part of the Breton lifestyle.
Vannes
(Hotels Vannes), Dinan
(Hotels Dinan) and Rennes
(Hotels Rennes), the Breton capital, have well preserved medieval
quarters where half-timbered buildings shelter inviting markets, shops,
crèperies and restaurants.
The walled port of
St-Malo on the Côte d'Emeraude recalls the region's
maritime prowess, while the remarkably intact castles at Fougères and Vitré
are a reminder of the mighty border-fortresses that protected Brittany's
eastern frontier before its final union with France in 1532.
Carnac, Gulf of Morbihan
One of the foremost prehistoric centers, the seaside resort of Carnac is
famed for its megalithic remains from the Neolithic period. In addition to
2792 menhirs, massive stones erected by tribes who inhabited the region
before the arrival of the Gauls, the area is studded with burial places,
semicircles, and tumuli.
Located ten miles off the southern coast of Brittany, Belle Ile
("Beautiful Island") is Brittany's largest. Buffeted by storms and fringed
by rocky cliffs, it is an isolated natural paradise whose inhabitants are
known for their hospitality. The medieval city of Vannes, at the head of the
Gulf of Morbihan, is a perfect base from which to explore this magical
inland sea and its many islands.
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Gastronomy
As a major supplier of France's vegetables and seafood, Brittany rewards
visitors with hearty, fresh fare from the earth and the sea, and with its
famous crepes filled with sweets like chocolate or fruit, or savory
mushrooms, cheese or eggs.
Brittany excels, with abundant oysters (particularly the meaty ones from
Belon and Cancale), shrimps, crayfish, crab and scallops. And lobster is the
mainstay of Breton menus, prepared in a cream sauce or grilled. The seafood
platter tops the bill in Brittany's best eating-places. In order to ensure
freshness and variety, restaurateurs have signed a charter guaranteeing an
"authentic Breton platter of fresh seafood"
Memorable meals include slat meadow lamb and poultry, accompanied by the
region's wonderful vegetables: artichokes, cauliflower, potatoes, carrots,
endives and lettuce. Vegetables blended with pork in a hot pot is
Calfedpotfe.
Sweet or savoury? There are many different ways to prepare the "galette
de sarrasin" (buckwheat pancake) or "crepe de froment" (wheatflour pancake)
and even more ways to serve this traditional dish! The perfect drink to
accompany a crepe is the Breton cider: cidre brut bouche.
There's the "far Breton", a custard pie; a sweet, buttery pastry called "kouign
amann"; and "galettes bretonnes", homemade crunchy butter cookies.
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