If you looked at a map, you might have trouble figuring out why people
so often speak of "Basilicata and Molise." Nowhere do the two tiny regions
touch each other; at their closest they are separated by a generous stretch
of the Campania-Apulia border.
Molise sits on the "rear" of the Italian calf
muscle, its eastern edge lapped by the Adriatic. Basilica forms a sort of
misshapen half moon stretching from the boot's instep to the top of the
foot, and its two tiny coastlines face the Ionian and Tyrrhenian Seas.
Perhaps what associates these two regions in so many minds is little more
than the way they have been overlooked in the illustrious lineup of Italy's
regions. Even we at In Italy have neglected them. Last but not least or, as
they say in Italy, dolce in fondo (save the sweet for the end of the meal).
If we had to be very very honest, there is only one reason we could find
for telling certain travelers not to bother with these two regions: with a
few renowned exceptions such as
Matera and
Maratea, they are not accustomed
to hosting foreigners. You won't find suave and sophisticated polyglot
hoteliers and restaurateurs here. The beds may be a bit lumpy. There may be
only one place to eat in town and it may have a limited menu featuring
dishes you've never heard of. Then there are the usual suspects: no screens
on the windows, not enough water pressure, sporadic "inefficiency"....
To sum up, these are regions for true travelers. If you fall into that
category, you can be very richly rewarded by allotting several days to
Basilicata and Molise. You'll find the archeological digs, medieval towns,
Romanesque churches, Renaissance frescoes and gourmet cuisine are as
impressive here as anyplace in Italy. You'll also find unparalleled natural
wilderness, and a few attractions you can find nowhere else on earth. We'll
tell you all about them in this issue.
Territory: The region is mountainous, arid, scarcely watered. It
has two coastlines, one in the center of the Gulf of Taranto in the Ionian
Sea, and a tiny one on the Tyrrhenian Sea, with the famous sea resort of
Maratea. The bare mountain landscapes slope down to the Ionian Sea.
Cities:
Potenza is the regional capital;
Matera is the capital of
the other province.
Art: The region is rich in archaeologic relics, dating back to the
most remote times. Remains of the Greek era can be found in Metaponto (the
Palatine Tables), while ruins of the Roman Age can be seen in Venosa.
Tourists can admire noteworthy examples of medieval art in Venosa and
Cerenza (Romanesque style). The architecture presents Arab-Byzantine and
French influences in Matera, Melfi and Lagopesole. In this region, the
Baroque style shows an evident Neapolitan influence.
Museums: The Provincial Archaeologic Museum of Potenza houses an
important prehistoric collection, an interesting ethnographic section and
numerous Greek and Latin inscriptions. In Matera, the Ridola National Museum
holds Paleolithic relics, and ceramics which date back to the Neolithic,
Bronze and Iron Ages. The Pinacoteca d’Errico displays noteworthy paintings
of the Neapolitan school of the seventeenth and eighteenth century. The
Archaeologic National Museum of Melfi houses prehistoric, protohistoric and
Roman relics.
To be visited: In
Matera, visitors can see the “Sassi”, the
typical houses and churches dug into the “tufa” crag. Matera is in the
southern Italian region of Basilicata, between Calabria and Puglia. The
city's population is 60,000, with about 3,000 people living in the sassi.
Explore the sassi on your own with maps provided by the tourist office, or
on a guided walk.
The tourist office sells tickets for a self-guided tour of a half-dozen or
so rock churches in the sassi. More are scattered around in parks in the
nearby countryside and can be visited by car.
Explore the modern upper town for its shops, art galleries and excellent
food shops, such as Samuele Olivieri's Il Buongustaio, which stocks local
specialties such as dried red peppers and ear-shaped orecchiette pasta. The
local art museum houses some of Carlo Levi's paintings.
Stroll with the locals during the evening passeggiata starting at Piazza
Vittorio Veneto. Have a coffee at the Caffè Tripoli, and see photos and news
clippings from Mel Gibson's filming of "The Passion of the Christ."
In the Gulf of Policastro, tourists can enjoy the fascinating
Maratea, an important resort
of the Tyrrhenian Sea; on the Ionian Sea, the Antiquarium of Metaponto.
Basilicata is a tiny southern region, occupied for the most part by
mountains that in places reached by two seas: the Tyrrhenian sea for a short
section of coast line, and the Ionian sea. It is one of the poorest region
in Italy but it boast a piece of prehistory in the modern world: "The Sassi".
They are located at Matera, the second main city of Basilicata, and UNESCO,
the UN organisation that deals with education, science and culture, has
proclaimed it to be the "heritage of humanity". The "caves of Matera" are
one of the most peculiar, ancient and extraordinary human settlements in the
world, which have drawn the attention of scholars and artists from all over
the world (the Italian writer Carlo Levi spoke of them in his famous book
"Christ stopped at Eboli"). In the "caves", the houses have been dug out of
the tufa rock and the walls constructed with the excavated material.
Inhabited until recently, the "caves" are now empty and have become the
object of projects of cultural and touristic revaluation and restoration. A
visit to the "caves of Matera" is a truly unique experience. But it is not
the only reason to come to this small, secluded, and beautiful region
boarded by two seas: the Tyrrhenian and the Ionian. In Basilicata there are
Greek ruins (Metaponto), medieval churches and castles (Melfi, Lagopesole),
beautiful beaches (Maratea), and unspoilt countryside (Basilicata shares the
splendid park of Pollino with Calabria). And Matera does not only have its
"caves": the remarkable blend of Romanesque and Baroque styles in the Church
of S. Francesco, for example, is also fascinating. Finally, why not plan a
visit to Venosa, birthplace of the great and wise Latin poet Horace? Here,
among other attractions, it is possible to admire the medieval Abbey of SS.
Trinità and other interesting monuments. In the regional capital, Potenza,
ancient and recent earthquakes have seriously damaged the historic centre.
But the archaeological museum merits a visit. |