CENTRAL MARKET
 Central Market was the largest wet market in the city. Built in 1928, it
is also a very old building that has won awards for its architectural
design. Because of its strategic location, the rapid development of the
surrounding area (which led to a decline in its viability as a wet market
location) and the need to cater to tourists, the building was later
converted into a large arts and crafts centre.
Now, the building is home to many arts and crafts shops showcasing the work
of local artists and craftsmen. This is a great place to pick up souvenirs
and T-shirts in addition to more elaborate handicraft and artwork. Cultural
performances are also regularly hosted here. A wide variety of Malaysian
food can be sampled in and around the Central Market. You can find Central
Market just across from the Klang River, opposite the Dayabumi Complex, on
the fringe of KL’s Chinatown. Its location makes it easily accessible by
road and rail, and to pedestrians as well.
Sultan Abdul Samad Building
 The
gleaming copper domes and 130-meter clock tower of the Sultan Abdul Samad
Building are by far the most impressive architectural feature of the Dataran
Merdeka. This elaborate edifice is a fantastic blend of Moghul, Moorish,
Arab, and British neoclassical architecture, a style far more expressive of
the British colonial imagination than of Malay culture. Designed by
architects Norman and Bidwell, the building took more than two years to
build and was completed in 1897. It served initially as the center of
British colonial administration in Malaysia. Today, it houses the Judicial
Department on one end and Infokraf, a centre for Malaysian handicrafts, on
the other.
 DAYABUMI COMPLEX
The massive white modern complex of the famously expensive Dayabumi
Complex was designed to blend in with the pervading Moorish and
Byzantine atmosphere of the earlier establishments surrounding it providing
an excellent example of the marriage between modern technology and ancient
cultures. The building is criss-crossed with latticed grillwork inspired by
Moorish Islamic architecture. The complex houses a shopping arcade, City
Point, offices and the General Post Office.
KUALA LUMPUR RAILWAY STATION (OLD)
 The KUALA LUMPUR RAILWAY STATION, located at Jalan Hishamuddin, provide
further examples of Moorish inspired architecture.
Architect A.B. Hubback continued to feature arches, domes and minarets with
relish, creating what has come to be described as a Byzantine Arabian nights
fantasyland. It was built in 1910 and underwent extensive renovations in
1986 which also linked it to the General Post Office at Dayabumi. It is
equipped with air-conditioned waiting halls, snack kiosks, money changing
booths, souvenir shops, restaurants and a tourist information counter.
Across the street is the MALAYAN RAILWAY ADMINISTRATION BUILDING, another
fine example of the British colonial adaptation of Moorish architecture. It
is linked to the station by an underground thoroughfare. The railway station
was transferred to the spanking new KL Sentral in Brickfields on April 16,
2001.
The Kuala Lumpur Railway Station received its last intercity train service
on April 15, 2001 with the arrival of the Senandung Malam at 10.30pm. It
marked the end of the station's 90-year period as the central hub of rail
transportation in the peninsula.
As of April 16, 2001 all KTM Berhad intercity services to the north, south
and the east coast will operate from the new Kuala Lumpur Sentral Station
located in nearby Brickfields. According to duty station manager Sulaiman
Murad, the first intercity train to arrive at the KL Sentral today will be
the 7am Express Kenari. Only KTM Komuter services will continue to stop at
the old KL Railway Station. The old station, with its distinct Moorish
architecture was designed by A. R. Hubback who also designed the Masjid
Jamek(A mosque in KL). The old station first began operation in 1911.
Station Hotel supervisor Anthony Kau said the Kuala Lumpur station, which
exudes colonial charm, will still attract tourists. "I don't think our
business will be affected as passengers can just hop on the commuter train
to come to the old station,'' he said.
LAKE GARDENS (TAMAN TASIK PERDANA)
 The
brainchild of Alfred Venning, the British State Treasurer in the 1880s, this
botanical garden, set amid lakes in the heart of Kuala Lumpur, is the city
dweller's favourite rendezvous. Nestled deep in the city centre are a
sprawling 104 hectares of close-cropped lawns, undulating hills and
carefully cultivated gardens. Situated near Jalan Parlimen, Lake Gardens
offers locals and visitors a wide range of facilities such as playgrounds,
jogging tracks, exercise stations and rowing boats while other attractions
within the park include a bird park, a butterfly park, a deer park and
flower gardens. Admission: Free
MASJID JAMEK
Near Dataran Merdeka are two important mosques, the Masjid Negara
(National Mosque) and the Masjid Jamek (Jamek Mosque), which stand as
prominent symbols of the country's religious history. As is custom for
Muslims, a call to prayer occurs five times a day, and many Malays break
their work day at each calling. Emanating from the mosques at these times is
what is known as the "azan," a sing-songy chant -- sung by the "muezzin" --
that echoes over the area. Friday prayers, held in the afternoon, are the
cause of many a traffic jam in KL as worshippers rush to the nearest mosque.
Masjid Jamek, which dates back to 1909, is KL's oldest mosque. Located in
Jalan Tun Perak, this Moorish mosque - inspired by the Indian Muslim style
of architecture - rests on the confluence of the Klang and Gombak Rivers,
the birth-place of Kuala Lumpur. This is the very spot where the first
settlers of Kuala Lumpur in search of tin built their shacks. The
red-bricked structure of Masjid Jamek features attractive gold onion-shaped
domes, numerous arched colonnades, and shiny marble floors designed by
A.B.Hubback. See history of KL.
Mosques welcome visitors to peruse the grounds as long as they wear the
appropriate garments, which are provided at the entrances. (Both men and
women must cover any "bare" body parts, such as arms and legs, and women are
asked to cover their head.) Unlike the Western church, where the interior is
clogged with pews, mosques offer an airy floor space on which to kneel, and
men and women worship in separate compartments. Although prayer times
provide a unique opportunity to observe Islamic worshippers, and listen to
the azan, you will not be allowed into the premises of any mosque at these
times unless you are a Muslim.
NATIONAL MOSQUE
The National Mosque, with a capacity of 5000, is situated among five
acres (13 hectares) of beautiful gardens. Originally built in 1965, it was
recently refurbished, and now features marble floors, reflecting pools,
fountains and a 73-meter high minaret, sleek and stylish against the Kuala
Lumpur skyline. An underground passage leads to the boldly modern National
Mosque located near the railway station, along Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin. Its
bright blue jagged rooftop, designed in the shape of an eighteen-pointed
star, has the appearance of a partly opened multi-fold umbrella-like roof
which symbolizes the aspirations of an independent nation. Its unique modern
design embodies a contemporary expression of traditional Islamic art
calligraphy and ornamentation.
NATIONAL MUSEUM
The NATIONAL MUSEUM just outside the Lake Gardens, is a palatial
structure built in style of old Malay Architecture. Located atop a hill at
Jalan Travers, it provides an interesting introduction to the history and
culture of Malaysia. Built in the style of a Malay palace, its impressive
facade of two large murals depicts scenes of the country's colorful past and
rich culture. Inside are interestingly laid out displays and exhibits on
local history, culture and traditions, arts and crafts; economic activities;
local flora and fauna; weapons and currency.
The museum houses various galleries, each with its own theme. The
Historical Gallery traces the different periods in the history of Peninsular
Malaysia. The Cultural Gallery is a collection of various aspects of the
Malaysian culture, from common everyday pastimes to important ceremonial
customs. Included in the exhibits are a Malay wedding scene, a royal
circumcision ceremony, and an presentation on the heritage of the
Straits-born Chinese. The Metalwork and Musical Instruments Gallery
showcases various objects and utensils from kitchenware and ceremonial
ornaments to weapons and traditional instruments of Malaysian music.
Other galleries include the National Sports Gallery and the Natural
History Gallery. Outside, are old locomotives, vintage cars and other relics
of transport from days gone by. Reconstructed Malay palaces from others
parts of the country also grace the expansive grounds. The National Museum
also holds regular thematic exhibitions featuring specific aspects of life
and culture from all over the world.
PETALING STREET & CHINATOWN
PETALING STREET - The heart of Kuala Lumpur's original CHINATOWN and a
bustling night market serving as a bargain hunter's paradise and one of the
premier shopping areas in the city with its distinctly oriental atmosphere. Petaling Street maintains much of its traditional atmosphere, particularly
at night when vendors spread their wares out on the street. While it is
possible to purchase anything from gems and incense to toys and t-shirts
here, enjoying the night market is really a matter of just wandering about
and enjoying its sights, sounds, and energy. Incredible bargains amidst a
melange of signs, shops, noise and roadside food stalls open until the wee
hours of the morning. A must for any tourist. Another scene of KL's famous
night markets.
At the end of the street is the CHAN SEE SHU YUEN TEMPLE which dates back
to 1906. The interior of this highly stylized building features open
courtyards pavilions, intricate carvings and paintings. Outside, elaborate
glazed ceramic sculptures grace the facade and roof ridges.
The SRI MAHAMARIAMMAN TEMPLE at Jalan Tun H.S.Lee, is close to Chinatown.
Built in 1873, the temple is said to be the most ornate and elaborate Hindu
temple in the country. The design and decorative features include intricate
carvings of Hindu deities, gold embellishments, precious stones and
hand-painted motifs. Exquisite Italian and Spanish tiles provide further
ornamentation. A silver chariot housed within the premises features
prominently in religious processions, transporting the statue of the deity
through the city streets.
CHINATOWN
While KL's mosques connote an air of calm and solace, no place better
symbolizes the opposite end of the city spectrum - the break-neck speed of
commerce - than Chinatown.
Malaysia's Chinese population, some 30 percent of the country's total,
immigrated to Malaysia as early as the 15th century, but largely in the 19th
and early 20th century, capitalizing on the spice trade of the Melakan
Straits as well as running Malaysia's tin mines - once the country's main
source of income. The Chinese immigrants were hard-working and
entrepreneurial, and today, Malaysia's Chinese are at the center of much of
the country's commercial activity.
In Chinatown, you can witness in this commerce first hand. Indeed, along
Petaling Street, the heart of Chinatown, you will see just about anything
and everything being sold. Values can be had, as bargaining is most
definitely the order of the day. Along Petaling Street, one word may come in
particularly handy: "setengah," which means "half." Locals will often yell
out "setengah!" as soon as they hear the first price a vendor offers. It is
a practice worthy of imitation.
Chinatown is a fun place to explore, with a myriad of narrow alleyways
and a variety of shops. One of the most interesting shops is the Chinese
herbal medicine store. Here you will find hundreds of herbs and roots that
are all meant to remedy any ailment and/or promote general good health.
Coming down with a cold? The storekeeper may just recommend that you boil
fresh ginger or hyacinth beans in water with sugar.
SULTAN SALAHUDDIN MOSQUE
If you are really fascinated by mosques, one of the most impressive is
the Sultan Sallahudin Mosque, one of the largest mosques in Southeast Asia.
Located in Shah Alam, about 16 kilometers outside of KL, it is huge and
magnificent -- with an enormous, dark blue cone-like dome and four
pronounced minarets pointing to the heavens. Its interior is also open to
visitors at non-prayer times. The Sultan Sallahudin Mosque is adjoined by a
small man-made lake, which makes it a particularly serene setting,
especially at sunset.
MODERN MALAYSIA
Not surprisingly, downtown KL is an excellent place to witness the
fast-paced, "Modern Malaysia." One need not venture very far to get a
glimpse of the Petronas Towers, which are currently the world's tallest
buildings located at the junction of Jalan Ampang and Jalan P. Ramlee.
Actually, a better place to get a view of these behemoths is at the
observation deck of yet another modern attraction off Jalan Punchak in
downtown, Menara Kuala Lumpur -- the tallest in Asia. This beacon of pink
rises 421 meters above the ground and boasts, aside from spectacular views
of the city and its environs, the highest McDonald's outlet on earth,
according to the outlet manager. In the event a burger and fries just won't
cover your hunger, there's also a fancy revolving restaurant at the top,
serving lunch (at about RM50, or US$13), high-tea (RM30/US$8) and dinner
(from RM70/US$18) every day. Reservations are recommended, especially for
dinner.
Another modern-day wonder, although not unique to Malaysia, is the
mega-mall shopping complex. They're popping up throughout KL and the suburbs
in ever increasing numbers, and it's unlikely an out-of-town visitor will
not run smack into one, either by chance or on purpose. In downtown KL, one
of the newest and most impressive is the multi-level Star Hill shopping
complex, located in the so-called "Golden Triangle" district, a busy
cross-section of streets lined with shops, hotels and businesses. Many of
the fancy and well-known international boutiques are located here, such as
Gucci, Christian Dior and DKNY, as well as a huge variety of shops and
restaurants. Even if you don't buy anything, a stroll through Star Hill can
give you a sense of the young, hip, modern Malaysian scene. This place is
often jam-packed, especially on weekends, and will no doubt continue to be
that way...until the next new, trendy complex comes along.
Finally, the road down Modern Malaysia might just drop you off onto the
main thoroughfare of Jalan Sultan Ismail at the Benson & Hedges Bistro -- a
true testament to the cafe life. Interestingly, most of the cigarette
manufacturers in Malaysia have set up side businesses, such as travel
agencies and restaurants, as vehicles for advertising their brands
(cigarette product advertising is banned.) Thus, establishments like B&HB.
If you can stand the possibility of being politically incorrect, B&HB
actually has a very trendy atmosphere, with funky tables and couches, and
serves up a fine assortment of food and coffee drinks. With caffe latte and
mocha cappuccino on the menu, you can probably tell that this place oozes
hip.
WHEN NIGHT FALLS... KL AT NIGHT
Like many of the world's capitals, KL lights up at night. After all, this
is the time to be outdoors, after the extreme heat of the day has worn away.
One of the most colorful and lively events is the pasar malam, or night
market. These take place at certain places across the city on various days
of the week. The pasar malam has a very social, almost carnival-like
atmosphere, although many of the goods on sale are of a practical nature,
such as fruits and vegetables. In fact, the night market is an excellent
place to come if you wish to sample some of Malaysia's exotic, tropical
fruits. Some of the most unusual include the jackfruit, an enormous fruit
that looks a bit like an elongated-watermelon and tastes a bit like a
persimmon, but with a rubbery texture; the rambutan, which looks like a
hairy grenade on the outside but encloses a super-sweet, lychee-like fruit
on the inside; and the mangosteen, a juicy, white fruit encased in a purple
peel. Of course, there is also the durian, the so-called King of Fruits,
with its notorious smell and creamy textured, onion-like taste. One popular
pasar malam in downtown KL takes place along Jalan Tunku Abdul Raman on
Saturday evenings, from about 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.
For a bit of culture, albeit manufactured for the tourist crowd, Restoran
Seri Melayu offers a buffet dinner of local cuisine and 45-minute "cultural
show," which includes a variety of traditional Malaysian dances that
originate from places such as Kuantan and Sabah. These colorful and ornate
displays give the visitor a chance to witness a way of life very different
from the city hubbub. The Malaysia Tourist Information Complex, located
across from the New World Hotel, has a similar cultural show every Tuesday,
Thursday, Saturday and Sunday at 3:30 p.m.
There are also many bars and discos, many of them located in the downtown
hotels, such as the Hard Rock Cafe at the Concorde Hotel. Outside the city
center, two areas are particularly well-known for their "night scene,"
especially among the expatriate community: Damansara Utama and Bangsar.
Damansara Utama is the place to go if you want to catch some live music.
Indeed, one of Malaysia's hottest young musicians, Amir Yussof, owns and
plays on Fridays and Saturdays at a small place called X-tasy. The music
here, usually a mix of covers and originals, is most accurately described as
acoustic rock n' roll. At Bangsar, you'll also find loads of chic
restaurants and busy bars, among them a traditional Irish pub, such as the
newly-opened Finnegans, and Ronnie Qs. Both Damansara Utama and Bangsar also
offer the perennial karaoke lounges.
FOOD, FOOD AND MORE FOOD... LOCAL CUISINE
Whether they're busy shopping, sightseeing or exploring nature, visitors
are bound to work up an appetite. Luckily, KL has a lot to offer in the
local food department. In fact, Malaysia in general, and KL in particular,
has an exceptionally wide variety of cuisine available. Each group prepares
its own type of food with distinctive flavors. Most Malaysians will tell you
that they love to eat. There's ample reason why.
One of the best places to sample local dishes is at the many, many hawker
stalls scattered throughout the city. Most of these are located outdoors,
but they are also found in the indoor shopping centers, such as Central
Market or Star Hill. In either case, variety is the norm: noodle dishes,
rice dishes, hot and spicy food, fried and greasy food, soups, salads and
more. An extremely popular Chinese specialty, served mainly at lunch, is
chicken rice. Simple but delicious, it consists of a chopped chicken leg or
thigh over rice with a spicy chili and garlic sauce on the side. An equally
popular and delicious Chinese dish is fried kway teow, a stir-fry of spicy
black bean sauce, egg and noodles, with shrimps or mussels and a few sprouts
thrown in for good measure. The cost of these dishes rarely exceeds RM4
(US$1).
Malay food is sometimes described as a blend between Indian and Thai.
Throw in a little Indonesian and even Chinese influence, and you might be
close. One example of a typically Malay dish is nasi goreng, essentially
fried rice with a potpourri of additions, such as egg, dried sardines,
peanuts and veggies. Mee goreng is a close cousin: fried noodles with chili
sauce and fixings. Satay is also a Malaysian favorite; chicken or beef
nuggets cooked on a skewer over hot coals and served with a spicy peanut
sauce. All Malay food is halal, roughly the Islamic equivalent of kosher.
For an Indian specialty, one of the local favorites is roti canai
(pronounced "row-tea, chuh-nye"), basically fried dough, kneaded into a
thin, flaky pancake. It comes with a choice of "dipping" sauces - sometimes
lentil, sometimes curry - and is generally eaten with the hands. In fact,
many Malays and Indians prefer to eat with their hands, and you will see it
being done with skill and relish. However, only the right hand is used for
eating. Roti canai is usually served for breakfast and in the evening, but
often not for lunch, when the banana leaf meal is the norm. Actually, the
term banana leaf refers to the "plate" that is used to serve the meal, which
includes an assortment of bryanni rice (a colorful, mixed rice), green bean
and sprout salads, fried chicken or fish, curried mutton or beef, and the
like. The idea is to pick and choose, buffet style. One piece of roti canai
is usually under RM1 (US$0.25), while a banana leaf meal usually runs RM8-12
(US$2-3). Indian food is sometimes an offer at hawker stalls, but
restaurants serving these dishes are never far away.
While sampling local cuisine at hawker stalls is a must, KL also offers a
host of unique restaurants. Of special note is Bon Ton, which, in addition
to offering quite a fine grounds-eye view of the Petronas Towers,
specializes in traditional Nonya cuisine. "Nonya" is a reference to the
early female Chinese settlers of Melaka. These earliest Chinese immigrants
to Malaysia picked up many of the local customs upon arrival, including
language and food; thus, Nonya cuisine is a unique blend of Chinese and
Malay cuisine. Bon Ton is located in an old mansion and has a charming
interior with tasteful oriental furnishings.
Also of interest, especially for those yearning for a slab of beef, is
the restaurant and bar at the Coliseum Hotel on Jalan Tunku Abdul Raman. The
atmosphere here is pure colonial past, and the white-clad, no-nonsense
waiters -- as well as the somewhat shabby state of the premises -- just add
to the notion that you've stepped back sixty or seventy years. The specialty
is the "sizzling steak," a huge potion of sirloin or T-bone that is sizzled
in butter and gravy on a hot plate right before your eyes. Most people
shield their body with the white tablecloth as steam billows from their
plate for several minutes. A visit to the Coliseum is as much an experience
as it is a hearty, delicious meal.
Finally, for the more refined experience, there's Carcosa Seri Negara,
KL's most elegant -- and expensive -- overnight stay. Formerly the official
residence of Britain's colonial administrators, Carcosa Negara has hosted
many foreign dignitaries, including Queen Elizabeth. Each suite comes with
two private butlers and a balcony or verandah with a splendid view. Those
wishing not to spend the up to RM2,500 (US$650) per night can nonetheless
enjoy a sophisticated "afternoon tea " for RM28 (US$7) in the main dining
room, overlooking the lovely gardens above the city.
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