| Port Dickson
Port Dickson, the playground resort in Negeri Sembilan, is thirty-four
kilometers from the state capital of Seremban and about an hour and a half
from Malaysia's capital city, Kuala Lumpur. It has miles of fine sandy
beaches fringed by Casuarinas, palms, and the intricate, above-ground root
formations of the Banyan tree. The road to Port Dickson hugs the Malaysian
coastline, making impromptu rest and swim stops almost impossible to resist.
Vendors along the road offer thirst-quenching drinks of coconut water and
sugar-cane juice.
 A
complete menu of leisure activities is available in Port Dickson, including
water-skiing, canoeing, snorkeling, windsurfing, and sailing, all of which
can easily be handled through the reception desk at your hotel.
Despite Port Dickson's reputation as an area firmly focused on beach
resort activity, the sights and history of the surrounding area are well
worth experiencing. At Kota Lukut, a mere seven km from Port Dickson, stands
the fort of Raja Jumaat, a renowned nineteenth-century Bugis warrior. The
fort was built in 1847 to control the lucrative tin trade in the area.
Another rewarding site is the lighthouse at Cape Rachardo, built by the
Portuguese in the 16th century in order to guide ships to the safety of
Malacca's harbour. The lighthouse is still functioning today, and visitors
can ascend its narrow spiral stair to the beacon, which offers a magnificent
view of the coastline of Sumatra. The Cape is also a popular stopover point
for migratory birds. From September to March, flocks of sparrows, honey
buzzards, and swifts can be seen here, together with birds of prey, such as
hawks and eagles.
Twenty-three kilometers south of the lighthouse, on the road to Malacca,
sits the small and mysterious village of Pengkalan Kempas. The village
houses the enigmatic 15th-century tomb of Sheikh Ahmad Majnun, whose epitaph
explains that he fell while fighting to save a now unknown woman referred to
simply as "the princess." It is home to a more prominent mystery as well,
however. Beside the tomb stand three megaliths, elaborately carved, of
unknown origin and use. As if to seal the reputation of this hamlet of the
unknown, there is also in Pengalen Kempas an "ordeal stone." This ancient
lie-detector, through which a person would put his arm when answering
questions, allegedly reacts to an untruth by closing upon the liar's fist.
Whether or not this story is true makes for an interesting dare.
Getting there:
Take the Kuala Lumpur - Seremban bus, then the Seremban - Port Dickson
bus.
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