Barri Gòtic
Barri
Gòtic, the enchanting centre of old Barcelona, is a maze of dark streets
crammed with cafes, bars and the cheapest accommodation in town. Spend a day
wandering among wonderful, medieval buildings and some of the most
awe-inspiring architecture ever to leave a draughtsman's desk.
Most of the buildings date from the 14th and 15th centuries, when
Barcelona was at the height of its commercial prosperity and before it had
been absorbed into Castilla. A masterpiece of its medieval heritage, the
Barri Gòtic's catedral, is one of Spain's greatest Gothic buildings.
The quarter is centred on the Plaça de Sant Jaume, a spacious square, the
site of a busy market and one of the venues for the weekly dancing of the
sardana. Two of the city's most significant buildings are here, the
Ajuntament and the Palau de la Generalitat.
Gràcia
A fully fledged suburb since the end of the 19th century, Gràcia is home
to a combination of artists, students and intelligentsia mixed with average
Joseps, who lend it a down-to-earth atmosphere. There are lovely parks to
enjoy during the day and at night the square becomes a popular and vivacious
meeting place.
Once a separate village north of L’Eixample, and then in the 19th century
an industrial district famous for its Republican and liberal ideas, Gràcia
was incorporated into the city of Barcelona in 1897. In those days it had
some catching up to do, as the town had poor roads, schools and clinics, and
no street lighting or sewers.
In the 1960s and '70s the area became fashionable among radical and
bohemian types, and today it retains some of that flavour – plenty of hip
local luminaries make sure they are regularly seen around the bars and cafés
of Gràcia.
Plaça del Sol is a pleasant place to sit during the day, surrounded by
cafes and serene 19th-century architecture.
La Pedrera
La Pedrera was designed by Gaudí and built between 1905 and 1910 as an
apartment/office block. Formerly called the Casa Milà, it's better known as
La Pedrera (the quarry) because of its uneven grey stone facade that creates
a wave effect, which is further emphasized by elaborate wrought-iron
balconies.
Visitors can tour the building and go up to the roof, where giant
multicoloured chimney pots jut up like medieval knights. On summer weekend
nights, the roof is eerily lit and open for spectacular views of Barcelona.
One floor below the roof is a modest museum dedicated to Gaudí's work.
La Rambla
La Rambla is a tree-lined pedestrian boulevard packed with buskers, mimes
and itinerant salespeople selling everything from lottery tickets to
jewellery. It's actually five separate streets strung end to end and covers
the entire sightseeing gamut from sublime to seedy.
The noisy bird market on the second block of La Rambla is worth a stop,
as is the nearby Palau de la Virreina, a grand 18th-century rococo mansion
with arts and entertainment information and a ticket office. Next door is
the Mercat de la Boqueria, which has been voted Europe's best produce
market. Just south of the market, the Mosaïc de Miró punctuates the
pavement, with one tile signed by the artist.
The next section of La Rambla boasts the Gran Teatre del Liceu, the
famous 19th-century opera house. Below Plaça Reial, La Rambla becomes
decidedly seedy, with strip clubs and peep shows. It terminates at the lofty
Monument a Colom (Monument to Columbus) and the harbour. You can ascend the
monument by lift.
Just west of the monument, on Avinguda de les Drassanes, stand the Reials
Drassanes (Royal Shipyards), which house the fascinating Museu Marítim. It
has more seafaring paraphernalia than you'd care to wag a sextant at -
boats, models, maps, paintings, ships' figureheads and 16th-century galleys.
La Sagrada Família
La Sagrada Família is truly awe-inspiring. Even if you don't have much
time, don't miss it. The most ambitious work of Barcelona's favourite son,
Antoni Gaudí, the magnificent spires of the unfinished cathedral imprint
themselves boldly against the sky with swelling outlines inspired by the
holy Montserrat.
The spires are encrusted with a tangle of sculptures that seem to breathe
life into the stone. Gaudí died in 1926 before his masterwork was completed
and, since then, controversy has continually dogged the building programme.
Nevertheless, the southwestern (Passion) facade, with four new towers, is
complete, with only decorative detail to be added, and the nave, begun in
1978, is progressing. Some say the shell should have been left as a monument
to Gaudí, but today's chief architect, Jordi Bonet, argues that the
completion of La Sagrada Família must progress, as the building is intended
to atone for sin and appeal to God's mercy on Catalonia.
Montjuïc
Montjuïc, the hill overlooking the city centre from the southwest, is
home to some fine art galleries, leisure attractions, soothing parks and the
main group of 1992 Olympic sites. Approach the area from Plaça d'Espanya and
on the north side you'll see Plaça de Braus Monumental, a former bullring
where the Beatles played in 1966. Behind it lies Parc Joan Miró, where
stands Miró's highly phallic sculpture Dona i Ocell (Woman and Bird).
Nearby, the Palau Nacional houses the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya,
which has an impressive collection of Romanesque art. Stretching up a series
of terraces below the Palau Nacional are fountains, including the biggest,
La Font Màgica, which comes alive with a free light and music show on summer
evenings. In the northwest of Montjuïc is the 'Spanish Village', Poble
Espanyol. At first glance it's a tacky tourist trap, but it also proves to
be an intriguing scrapbook of Spanish architecture, with very convincing
copies of buildings from all of Spain's regions. The Anella Olímpica
(Olympic Ring) is the group of sports installations where the main events of
the 1992 games were held. Down the hill, visit masterpieces of another kind
in the Fundació Joan Miró, Barcelona's gallery for the greatest Catalan
artist of the 20th century. This is the largest single collection of his
work.
Museu Picasso
Barcelona's most visited museum shows numerous works tracing the artist's
early years and is especially strong on his Blue Period, with canvasses like
The Defenceless, as well as ceramics and early works from the 1890s. The
rest of the museum traces Picasso's life and travels.
The stunning stone mansions that house the museum are situated on the
Carrer de Montcada, which was, in medieval times, an approach to the port.
The 1st floor is devoted to Picasso's Blue Period. The 2nd floor displays
his impressionist-influenced works, produced in Barcelona and Paris between
1900 and 1904. The haunting Portrait of Señora Canals (1905), from his Rose
Period, is also on display. Among the later works, all painted in Cannes in
1957, is a complex technical series entitled Las Meninas, which consists
mostly of studies on Diego Velázquez's eponymous masterpiece.
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